The biggest area that needs attention in the lower hull is the rear of the hull. Dragon supplies a large plate which is suppose to be a cover and extension. It really don't have any detail nor does it fit very well, plus it interferes with the exhaust vent.
Instead of using the stock item, I decided to use the rear hull extenders from ECA. I have used this before on my 1st tank and it worked excellent. This item fits well and is accurate. It also allows the exhaust vent section to fold up and into it which again is how the real thing works.
Stock plate that is suppose to be a lower hull extension?
Here is the ECA part installed, any gaps filled...
I also created my own rear tow eyes. The stock ones are not very accurate or thick enough. You can have either 4 arms sticking out or two. I choose to use the larger 2 style.
Rear idler mounts attached, I used #5 bolts to hold them in place, just like the real tank.
Another item some people miss is the little Joe generator, exhaust. The Dragon supplied piece is ok, but is not hollow and has some casting marks on it. I decided to create my own out of stryene strip. Whether you use the stock one or make your own, make sure you add the little protective cover as its there on the real one. The cover is there to protect the exhaust from rocks etc thrown up by the wheels/tracks.
You can either have it running straight out or with a little bend in it pointing downward.
And the last thing added prior to primer and paint is the transmission housing bolts which are missing from the model. There is 10 bolts per side. I used #6 hex bolts.
Here is the rear section completed with the following additions:
ECA tow hitch extender, Modified Dragon hitch mount;
ECA Rear Idler mounts, real metal bolts #5's;
ECA hull extension kit;
ECA Rear engine Hatch;
Stock exhaust stacks reworked, casting material etc;
Scratch made tow eyes;
Transmission housing bolts (10 per side);
Sponson access caps (1 per side);
Little Joe Exhaust with protective cover ; and
weld lines.
For weld lines, I use milliput and a little metal tool to create the marks. The Sherman has smoother welds then most, so a real pronounced scalp shape is not necessary although looks good when painted. Weld lines run along the inside of the sponsons, and once the upper hull is in place, weld lines will be place on the outer side as well. Also along the bottom of the rear plate.
Now the lower hull is complete and ready for paint. Due to the size I need to paint outside so right now I need to wait for the weather to get nicer. I will also add a little weathering to the under side. Again, its starting to get heavy so better to do this now then try and do it once the tank is built.
Next post....Final suspension assembly.
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