The kit supplied parts are not horrible. When installed and painted they look the part and are the correct shape. But, and its a big but! The suspension is static. Wait, what did you say? Yes that right, the suspension is static, fixed in place, like a stone,...it don't move ....
The reality of it is Dragon built it this way. Scaled from their 1/35 kit. Its meant to be a static model, its not made to be RC or pushed around. It was created to sit there and look pretty. For most people, I am sure its Ok. Once put onto the model and painted, they look fine and do what they are suppose to. But for me, trying to build the most accurate and realistic Sherman I can, Static suspension just won't do. Now the first tank I built, it took me about 2 months to figure it out, get the spring rates right so that that track sits properly, how to articulate the arms etc. It was a lot of trial and error, and each time I tried something I had to tear the whole suspension apart. Lucky for you I have done most of the work and all you have to do it copy it. The biggest obstacle you'll find is getting the right springs. In this I will tell you get the tightest springs you can find that fit (stronger ones) then you think you need. This beast is heavy, and you want good heavy springs to help keep the tank sitting properly.
I personally think Dragon could have built this tank with working suspension. It would have added about $5 more in parts cost to do it...but then I wouldn't have all the fun creating my own. plus there are a number of things missing and other problem areas like casting sink holes and open area's.
Today we will look at the parts that move or should move....
Suspension components...looks daunting but really its not.
Lets start: The Sherman tank has a total of 6 Suspension sections, 3 on each side, consisting of a total of 12 wheels. To make the suspension move you will need a couple of extra parts and the ability to cut the components. A small hack saw or similar will work. Now for the parts, you will need a total of 12 springs, and 12 suspension gudgeons. Gudgeons are a fancy name for a axle or rod for the lower arms to pivot on. (I am using 3 1/4" long furniture bolts.) Now springs are a bit tricky. The ones I am using are 1 1/2"long, 1/2" wide and have 7 coils.
Step 2
Once you have your parts together, its time to get organized. I put each components into a small box or tray to keep like parts together. As you can see in this picture. The top part (lever) is attached to the lower arms. The lower arms are all one piece. You can also see some sink holes and on the lever, open area's that should have been solid.
Before we get to cutting these apart. Its best you take care of the sink holes and open areas first. I fill the holes with milliputt and the open areas with casting resin. If you don't have casting resin, putty or milliput putty works fine.
Once filled and dry you can start cutting them apart...deep breath as there is no going back once you do this....
You need to cut/separate that arms that are cast together. Its a simple procedure. Just cut along the joint lines on both sides of the lever, and the lever will come off. Then its just a matter of splitting the lower arms and you are done. There is usually some clean up to do afterwards, a small flat file works really well at removing any excess material that is left over.
Next you want to remove the nub sticking out. Simply cut it off and sand it flush.
Then Drill it out with what ever size you need (depending on your axle or shaft size).
There, you have taken your first step to creating working suspension!
up next...rest of the components and putting it all together
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